Monday, July 14, 2008

Eating in Okinawa

Here's a little bit about what my diet looks like here in Okinawa
Okonomiyake

"Okonomiyake? Have you tried it? It's like a Japanese pancake." This is how I've heard a few Japanese folks explain this delicious little number. This is really more of an Osaka food, and I've only had Okonomiyake in Kansai Airport, so I may not have the best frame of reference... still, I thought that the Okonomiyake place in Misato was awesome. Rumor has it they're moving to Takahara, which is much closer to where I live. Here's another photo to give you an idea of what's in it (basically everything):

Nothing about the above suggests pancakes to me, but then I was looking through my photos and remembered what the pancakes at Caracalla in Chatan look like:

Even includes ice cream on top. So maybe Okonomiyake and pancakes are a lot alike. We prefer ice cream, fruit, and syrup; they prefer octopus, mayonaise, scallions, and slightly sweet soy sauce.

Cook It Yourself
You saw it in Lost In Translation, and it's true: they make you cook your own meal, sometimes. Actually, you have that option at the Okonomiyake place above. Here are some other CIY foods:

Hiroshima-style Noodles
They're so nice they left this little card in eigo (English) for us
Basically, you get to make your own broth. You pick, to some extent what will go in your soup, but you get to really jack up the spice if that's your style.


Yaki Nikku
Wanna grill out, but you don't have a lawn, or a grill, and you don't have anyone over to your house? Yaki Nikku to the rescue. There are many yaki nikku places here in Okinawa and for the most part it's the same game: order meat you like cooking, order vegetables that you like cooking, and, voila, your paying to do the job of chefs across America!

Above left is the plate o' steak (very thin, so try not to overcook) and then a little duck and steak cooking.

Food from Other Places

The Japanese are really into eating food from everywhere else, so long as it has mayonnaise included (I'm told it's the younger generation that are responsible for all the mayo, I'm just sayin the learned it somewhere).
There's Thai:

and Mexican:
This is a burrito that has been deep fried, topped with avocado and served with a sesame/mayo dressing. Que Sabroso!
You can even get French-ish foods, like croissants stuffed with hot dogs


Also Featuring Hotdogs
Try the uma no suteki up in Kin Town at Gate One, it comes with a tempura (which is a Portugese food, actually) hotdog, that is, a lightly breaded, deep fried hot dog:


Food from Here

You're in Okinawa, you have to have Okinawa Soba, once you know how to read "soba" in hiragana, you will realize that you are surrounded by shops that sell Okinawa Soba.
"But I thought soba was from Japan, not just Okinawa."
You're right, but in the mainland, soba is made from buckwheat and so the noodles are brown with a slight purplish color to them. In Okinawa they use something other than that, they look like thick spaghetti, and, unlike in the mainland, Okinawa soba is served hot. The Okinawans are known for their pork and so your soba will undoubtedly have a nice hunk of it in there:
This one also has fish cake in it. I don't know, just eat it. Be sure to put a nice dose of the Awamori hotsauce (next to the bones bowl in the left picture) in their as well as some chili pepper. When you're done put the bones in the little bowl that comes with it, feel free to suck the marrow, it's oishii (delicious)!

Didn't You Say Horse a Minute Ago?
I sure did, sir. Uma nikku (horse meat) is not really popular, but it is available, just like goat (yagi) you can get it as a sashimi (thinly sliced and raw). You will hear frmo me when I have uma sashimi, I promise.

Uma Suteki (horse steak) with tempura hot dog
Below, Yagi Sashimi (thinly sliced raw goat meat)

Really the horse steak was just alright: it was slathered in an A-1 type of sauce and so I wasn't really to pick up on any major gaminess or anything. The texture of the steak was a bit different though. It was more lean and there was more sinew in there than you get with beef. Maybe this was most like minute steak. The goat sashimi, however, was off the hook! You have to have it with the skin on their because that hide texture makes the whole experience amazing.

That's a lot of Meat
Yeah, so maybe you want to try something a little more heart healthy, like this taste kimpira rice burger from MOS Burger. Kimpira is a medley of root vegetables (burdock root, lotus root, carrot) that are marinated in what I think is soy sauce then served on two rice patties with a sheet of sea weed instead of a leaf of lettuce. This is definitely my favorite food at MOS:

Or maybe you want to cook. It's the summer time so right now you can monster sized Moui (Mo-ee). It looks like and is about the size of a water melon. It is also known as winter melon and is used in a lot of Chinese cooking. Just peel it, slice it to about 3 cm and cook with carrots and mushrooms and a generous helping of salt. Be sure to ladle out the bitterness that will clump at the top of the broth as it boils.

How About Fruit?
I'm glad you asked. Being from the States, I am accustomed to the most ridiculous variety of fruits and vegetables available to me at any time of year. Now that gas prices are climbing I'm glad I've moved to a part of the world that respects a little more the basic truth that you can't get oranges all year long, you just can't. Eat local. It sucks, but that's how nature intends it.
Here are some fruits that will be available in Okinawa at some point or another:

Biwa

Biwa is known as loquat and is related to the kumquat. Both are of Chinese orgin. Loquat (biwa) is perhaps the most delicious thing I've eaten this year so far. Simply peel the skin (you can use your fingers) and reveal this small little peach looking fruit. In the center is a large stone like a lychee's pit. Don't eat it.

Mikan
These are like clementines and are also known as mandarin oranges. If you've only had mandarin oranges from a can, let me tell you something: you are missing out. Mikans are easy to peel and are like tiny drops of citrus-flavored sunshine.


Passion fruit

Oh man, late June/early July is passion fruit season. I thought this was a made up fruit, something that Snapple and Sobe concocted in a factory near the New Jersey shore. I am delighted to inform you that I was really wrong.

You'll know the passion fruit is ready when the skin starts to feel like it is wrinkling (like when your fingers get all pruny in the bath tub or when you're snorkeling)
Cut the little guy in half and grab a spoon to slurp out this amazing fruit. If it's a little sour, try it with honey.

Rose Apple
or renbu (レンブ), maybe denbu (デンブ) This is a strange fruit. You have to soak it in water for a few hours because there are more than likely many ants inside it. Once you've taken care of that you've got this bell-shaped fruit that tastes a little like a sour apple with the firmness of celery. You can put it on a salad for a nice little something.


Desert
You're in Okinawa, it's really hot here, you want desert but the idea of eating one of those faux cheesecakes that everyone sells is nauseating, why not have Okinawa zenzai. Just like with soba, Okinawa has taken something from the mainland and done something better.

Zenzai is a mixture of adzuki beans (the red beans of red bean paste fame) and mochi and shaved ice. It sounds gross, but it's really the only thing other than snow cones that cures what ails me in the summer time here. The best part is the little mochi ball (sweetened, pounded, super chewy rice dough).
Somethings I Just Can't Eat Yet
In the U.S. we will usually have beer and maybe some queso dip, or some pretzels, or some peanuts. Here you can have smoked almonds and... yes, smoked fish:


Mayonnaise, the Food Group
Maybe you are in the mall and you want something to eat, something pasta-y but also combining an aesthetic that the gaijin just won't get. Why not try this?
Mayonnaise sauce with Cod Ovum and seaweed on noodles.


Or maybe this crepe stuffed with tuna salad and maybe (shudder, shudder) chocolate ice cream?
No?
Maybe just tuna and mayonnaise crepe?

I saw this in Kansai and thought it was something else, now I know it's just Jingrish:
it says Ass, but it should be asparagus.

Thursday, July 10, 2008

Okinawan Microcosmos

I loved the film Microcosmos and so inspired I took my handy 携帯電話 (cell phone, FOMA P905i) which includes a video camera and I went to some beaches. Here's one of a snail:


And here are some following crabs:


Wednesday, July 9, 2008

Best Day Ever!

So today I went to work and that was alright. But then things got fun-ner:

After work we headed up the hill to the Goya area of Okinawa City where we had our second practice with the Gaijin Eisa team. We're really delighted to be able to participate in this oh-so-Okinawan tradition because for the most part you're not allowed to dance Eisa after the age of 25. We will be performing at the end of August as part of a really large Okinawa City Eisa Festival. Here are some photos:

Then we met up with Miyagi-san and had Yaginiku, goat meat soup. The Japanese used to eat a lot of goat meat, but since the end of World War II this meat has been replaced steadily by beef. It's still eaten in some places, including Okinawa. Part of the reason goat meat has lost its favor is because goat meat has a pretty strong smell. That said, you can put some fresh mugwort in the soup and that not only adds a nice flavor it also changes the aroma a bit.

The belief is that goat meat will reinvigorate the consumer and is to be eaten after strenuous activity. And I gotta say I did feel pretty jazzed up afterwards. After a delicious bowl of goat soup with the mugwort and ginger and awamori hot sauce I knew I had to try it, goat sashimi:

I'm not sure how well you can see from this picture, but there are two cuts of goat sashimi here. There were a very few cuts that were a deep red, almost purple, very thinly sliced and were heavenly. My favorite, though, had to be the thick cut from the back of the goat which still had the skin on it, nice and thick. What an amazing texture! It was like eating a celery stalk made of goat meat - incredible and three totally different experiences.

Usually your told not to drink anything cold with the goat meat as it can be pretty fatty and there is a fear that drinking cold liquids will congeal the fat and give you a bad stomach ache - so usually you drink hot tea with it. But this taste experience lacked one thing. That's right, wasabi ice cream.

We went to Gelo Bello and saw that they have a new exhibit, this time from Dr. Cue. We watched some Spongebob Squarepants and called it a night.

What To Do in the Event of an Earthquake

I live in Japan and that means earthquakes will happen. Although historically Okinawa has not sustained the same magnitude of earthquakes (and their subsequent destruction) as in the mainland, we are far from immune to them.

For example, yesterday we had a pretty significant earthquake here. The seismic effects of the quake (whose epicenter was north and west of the main island, Okinawa Honto) was measured at JMA 3. JMA stands for Japan Meteorological Agency. At JMA 3 the following are likely to be observed:
"Rather strong. Slight shaking of houses and buildings, rattling of doors and Japanese sliding doors (shoji). The water surface of a vessel can be seen to ripple. Felt to be slightly surprising, and sleeping persons wake up, but they do not run outside or feel afraid. Many people outside feel it, but some pedestrians may not." (This is from an explanation of the scale here)

We were in our 日本語 (Japanese language) class when the quake began and it lasted for about thirty seconds. It was bizarre feeling the earth move around like that, like being drunk and then laying down.

I'm including a link to a .pdf that gives pretty great information about what to do if an earthquake strikes:

If outdoors
  • Avoid stone walls and vending machines
  • Get away from buildings and go to the nearest open space
If at the office
  • Protect your head with a cushion and get under a desk
  • Get away from book cases, and tall furniture; the best places are uncluttered hallways and lobby areas
  • Watch for objects underfoot (such as broken glass or sharp metal)
  • Don't use an elevator, use the stairs; if you're in an elevator, use the emergency phone
At the Supermarket
  • Cover your head and get away from aisle displays that might fall on you
  • Get under a sturdy desk or near a support column
  • Do not rush to the exit: follow instructions issued by the store personnel
When Driving
  • Pull over to the left (or whatever side you drive on)
  • Do not leave the car until the tremors subside
  • Close your windows, turn off the car, and leave the keys in the ignition with the doors unlocked
  • Do not try to evacuate by car

The big worry with an earthquake is being crushed by walls or vending machines or other large pieces of furniture or building frontages.
The next biggest concern is that gas lines will be ruptured and cause serious fires; so, turn off the gas as soon as you can.

[UPDATED 12:18pm]
Here's an article from Scientific American the same magazine my wife was published in last year.

Wednesday, July 2, 2008

Bull Fight!

Okinawa is the bull fighting capital of Japan. Who knew? It's not like in Europe, with matadors bleeding the bull to death. Here it's more like sumo wrestling (they even purify the ring with thrown rice), or maybe more like bull arm wrestling.
Here's the beginning of the first match:

So, basically, the bulls are brought into the ring, and brought to face the other bull and then they should lock horns and start to wrasslin' and for the most part that's what happened. Although in this clip all that happened was the other bull got too afraid and was led out of the ring.

But, in the third round one of the handlers lost control of the bull and it was gored by its opponent and that was pretty sad to see happen. The bulls are for the most part spoiled rotten by their owners and so I'm sure the bull will be fine, but it was hard not to feel a little bad for him, 'cause I'm sure that it hurts like hell.

Haari in Onna-son


So, about 2,500 years ago in China there began this festival of racing boats across a river. This has become part of the annual Summer Harvest rituals of East Asia since antiquity. The tradition comes to Okinawa by way of China, with whom the Okinawans have strongly identified over centuries of trade, but that's another post.

The point is: Every year on the Lunar calendar 5/5, East Asia celebrates this festival. In Okinawa they call it a Haari, others call it Matsuri, I call it fun.
Before the race can begin the village assembles at the village shrine (where their ancestors dwell) and ask for them to join in the celebration, then they play drums and walk to the harbor's kami (something like a spirit) shrine and ask for favorable conditions and their influence to get a really good race going. Then a costumed group goes out into the water to show how its done:

Our Institute is currently building an amazing facility in Onna Village and to be good neighbors we entered two teams (one boys and one girls) for the race. This race is not so much about having a bunch of strong folks as much as having a tightly synchronized group.

The men did really well, but there were some really great mens teams out there. The women's team did even better than the men's but, were just 4 seconds short of the finals.
We didn't win the cup (made of Ryukyu Glass, of course) filled with Orion beer. But we did win two gorgeous fish, and we promptly ate them as sashimi and in a soup at the after party.